Brands We Love- Flavors of the Past.
I was food shopping recently and while half heartedly trying to avoid the cookie aisle, but one label caught my attention, a label out of the past….Stella D’oro, specifically their fudge cookies. The familiar package design, and the equally familiar burst shaped cookies were straight out of one of the cabinets in Mom’s kitchen. I of course had to buy a package for old time’s sake, and now I can report that they are just as delicious now as they were fifty years ago. The brand actually originated in a small bakery in the Bronx in 1930, and by the 1960’s were on the shelves of every supermarket in town. They were New York’s cookie (along with the famous black and white cookie of course).
Later after I had put a can of Chock Full O’ Nuts coffee in my shopping cart, an idea started to form in my head. By the time I had added the Sabrett’s Hot Dogs and a jar of their onion sauce, the idea was fully formed. All three of those brand names were straight out of New York City, straight out of my childhood. Did I always do that, shop like that? Reach for what I remembered? Was it a trusted name or just comfort food? Did I always gravitate towards the familiar? I guess it’s not surprising that I do, or anyone does, after all that’s why they call it “comfort” food. And those three icons of New York City food are not the only ones to be found (miraculously) in grocery stores today. I recently discovered the hallowed Gilbran square Knishes famously sold from pushcarts on almost any street in the city (alongside the Sabrett’s “dirty water dogs”). I spotted them in our local Wegman’s. And what a delight to see an authentic Junior’s cheesecake on the bakery shelf too; I checked the package and sure enough it was right out of Flatbush Avenue in Brooklyn!
And let us not forget the sublime Bialy, uniquely New York by way of Bialystok in Poland. An iconic design with that small indentation on the top filled with a savory mixture of garlic, poppy seeds and onions; they are light and fluffy due to the fact that unlike bagels, they are not boiled before baking. They are also absolutely delicious toasted to a crisp. For years, after leaving New York, these were very hard to find; heck most non-new Yorkers had never even heard of them. But thank the Supermarket Gods, a couple of stores near us started carrying a frozen boxed version called Ray’s.
There are plenty of other familiar names from the past that I still reach for, and yes sometimes it’s out of pure nostalgia. Friday nights in our household growing up, always involved a dinner of fish of some kind, Mom being a good Catholic mother. Sometimes it was a home made tuna sandwich, and sometimes it was something like fish cakes, or fish sticks, and if it was one of those, it was always Mrs. Paul’s. Mom wouldn’t have dreamed of buying any other brand; Mrs. Paul’s ruled the fish stick world and that was all there was to it. We don’t eat too many fish sticks anymore; making our own fried fish sandwiches is better, and probably a bit healthier. It’s kind of silly when you think about it, living in a city like New York, whether it be now or the Sixties and Seventies when I was growing up, you pretty well could get almost any food in the world, fresh, and if you didn’t want to cook at all, heck there were pizzerias, bodegas, delis, and take out of every possible cuisine on almost every corner.
But sometimes it didn’t matter.
I used to love when Mom and Dad would decide on treating us to take out Chinese food; there were so many to choose from, some as close as a block or two away. So why then do I have such a soft spot for another childhood favorite (sadly no longer being made) Chun King’s canned Chicken Chow Mein. But this wasn’t just a can of Chow Mein; Chun King invented a packing design that had two stacked cans, taped together; one held the chicken and gravy that needed to be simmered slowly, and the other held the crunchy vegetables to be mixed in when the time was right. I loved that! Unfortunately even though they still make canned Chinese food – LaChoy being the largest manufacturer now, no one utilizes the stacked can presentation which was so popular then (whether or not it made a difference in the taste of the meal is up for debate). So I would bug Mom to, every once in a while, buy the Chun King Chow Mein in the stacked cans regardless of how many great take out places there were right in our own neighborhood. Before the line was discontinued a few years ago, I saw the stacked can Chun King at our local Walmart, and you gotta know I was ready to stock up, but I fought the urge (with Leslie’s help of course), and bravely walked away, never to see them again.
The list is long, made up of familiar names and remembered flavors…….Jello, Chun King, SpaghettiO’s, Uneeda Biscuits, Brim, Morton’s Pot Pies…some still around, some gone forever, but not a one of them forgotten, not by me anyway.
-Rob